Strength and Shape Memory of Same Spun Versus Opposite Spun Textiles

Abstract

Opposite spun textiles, woven textiles in which the yarns in the warp and weft are spun in opposite directions, were commonplace in the ancient world. However, the reasons why weavers chose to create opposite spun textiles over same spun textiles (those with yarns in the warp and weft spun in the same direction) are disputed by modern weavers, historians, and archaeologists. Some claim that the reasons are improved strength and shape memory (return to shape after strain) in opposite spun textiles. These claims have not yet been addressed in literature in a scientific context. This thesis seeks to assess the claim of improved strength and shape memory through comparing the breaking strength, Young’s modulus, fracture toughness, and ratio of elongation after strain of handspun and handwoven opposite spun textiles versus same spun textiles. The result of this research was that there was no significant difference between same spun and opposite spun textiles with respect to these material properties. The key differences between the two types of fabric were not in these properties, but in the hand of the fabric and their respective amounts of out-of-plane skew (curling) under stress.